US fashion designer Willy Chavarría has expressed regret over an Adidas sandal design accused of appropriating traditional Oaxacan footwear, prompting legal and political action in Mexico.
At a Glance
- Willy Chavarría said he regretted not collaborating directly with the Zapotec community of Oaxaca on the “Oaxaca Slip-On” sandal.
- The design resembles huarache sandals made in Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, Oaxaca, for generations.
- Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum and Oaxaca officials are seeking compensation from Adidas.
- Adidas is in discussions with local authorities over restitution measures.
- Mexico is exploring stronger laws to protect Indigenous cultural heritage.
Cultural Roots and Controversy
The disputed Adidas Originals sandal features braided leather straps nearly identical to those found in huarache footwear crafted by the Zapotec community of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag in Oaxaca. Critics argue the product name “Oaxaca Slip-On” and the absence of direct artisan involvement amount to cultural appropriation.
Watch now: Adidas Faces Backlash in Mexico for Cultural Appropriation – YouTube
Designer Willy Chavarría, who collaborated on the model, issued a public statement expressing regret, noting that while he aimed to honor his heritage, the process failed to establish a meaningful partnership with the Indigenous community. He acknowledged that the release did not uphold the respect and collaboration that should define such cultural references.
Official Pushback
Mexican officials, including President Claudia Sheinbaum, have formally accused Adidas of infringing upon the collective intellectual property of the Zapotec community. Oaxaca Governor Salomón Jara Cruz stated that compensation should be directed to the artisans and that the footwear should be withdrawn from the market.
The government’s legal approach draws on existing cultural heritage protections but may be bolstered by upcoming reforms intended to strengthen safeguards for Indigenous expressions. Such reforms could mandate that companies engage in binding agreements with artisan communities before commercializing traditional designs.
Industry Implications
This is not Mexico’s first dispute over global fashion brands using Indigenous motifs without authorization. Past cases have involved Zara, Shein, and Carolina Herrera. Each incident has added momentum to the push for tighter legal frameworks and stronger economic protections for traditional artisans.
Artisan huaraches are not only a symbol of cultural identity but also a vital source of income in rural Oaxacan communities. Critics warn that mass-produced imitations could undercut these markets, reducing demand for handcrafted originals and weakening community livelihoods.
For the fashion industry, the case could serve as a turning point—pressuring brands to adopt more transparent sourcing, ensure fair compensation, and involve communities in both creative and commercial decisions. Such measures may become a standard expectation from consumers increasingly concerned with cultural integrity and ethical production.
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